Buffalo River trip, Day 2, April 21, 2015

As we were launching today from Seamster’s Cabin, four boats passed by our camp. We fell in behind them and found out all the paddlers were in the military and were also floating to Woolum. We briefly saw the green canoe of  Josh and Nate getting in the river ahead of us, but did not meet up with them until we stopped at Kyle’s Landing to get water.

They were unpacking their canoe and getting ready for the drive back to Fayetteville. They said they had breakfasted on bratwurst and eggs and had Porterhouse steaks the night before for supper. None this freeze-dried food for them. But they were out one night and we plan to be out for four nights and five days. If we took their daily rations, we’d have to tow a barge. We waved them goodbye as we filled our water containers.

Really got into the water today. Cameras were all stowed safely away; light, fast-drying clothing on my body. Reading about Hell’s Half Acre last night made me nervous, but I roared through whooping and hollering. I want to ride the wave trains forever.

Our campsite the second night.

We stopped short of Ozark, our intended campsite in planning this trip. We had water and everything else we needed so that we could camp by ourselves across from a low bluff. We were not quite sure where we were on the map, but Jerry noticed there was a trail leading down to the water on our side of the river and one down to the river on the other side. He remembered that there was a ford marked on the map and wondered if that was our location. With the higher water, the ford would be a “swim” for any hiker coming down the trail that day.

We decided to walk up the trail on our side to see if it led to the McFadden Cemetery, one of many in this area that used to have several small communities.

Hiking to the McFadden Cemetery.

We hiked right by the cemetery on the way up but saw the sign on our return through the deciduous forest. Hard to figure the cemetery. No headstones, which could have been removed. An enclosed area with steps leading into it. An underground concrete box with a hole punched in it. Burial vault or septic tank? I thought the latter, but who knows?

Steps to the McFadden House front porch.

(Now back in the land of wireless internet, I found a PDF of a survey of properties in the Buffalo River national area that I wish I had taken with me. Turns out that the McFadden house site is also at the cemetery site: The stairs went up to the front porch of the house, the underground structure was part of the well system, the large concrete blocks were part of the foundation for house and barn. Now that I’ve seen the survey, I’m certain that we never wandered into the cemetery, which is notable for “ledger stones, including one that appears to be the grave of a child. These are large flat fieldstones that are level with the ground and cover the length of the grave. The stones are covered by dirt and leaves and only one is readily visible.” (“Buffalo National River Theme Identification Content studies and Property Evaluations, Thomason and Associates Preservation Planners, Nashville, Tennessee, and Hawkins Partners Landscape Architects, Nashville, Tennessee; September, 2004))

Finding the cemetery/house did confirm our location on the map and under the stars. The river may be dropping; it seemed much quieter tonight. Beautiful, peaceful evening. Why we do what we do.