Buffalo River kayak trip, Day 1, April 20

We drove to Kyle's Landing on Monday morning and arranged a shuttle with Mitch at Buffalo River Canoes. He said the water was high and that we would have a great, fast trip down the river that might get us to Woolum before our scheduled take-out on Friday. So he offered to have the truck at Woolum on Thursday.

Being relatively new to kayaking and river running, I had no idea what "high water" meant until we got to the put-in place at the Ponca Bridge. More people launching than I thought there would be on a Monday in April, but that gave me a chance to see how quickly you needed to get your boat brain in gear. Once you got on your boat and let go of the Ponca Bridge, you were sailing. I saw on a Vimeo video that the gap between bridge and water surface between 10 and 25 inches was the best for floating. It was only eight inches on Monday.

But in we went, and the fun started right away -- Except for the worry about the camera. I brought along every piece of equipment I own, but I had most stowed away in the hull, except for my trusty old Nikon Cool Pix before they ruined that model by taking away the view finder. I had chosen my PFD (personal floatation device) for the large pocket in front that offered some protection for the camera. But not enough when a novice paddler was trying to take video while going through the Class II rapids between Ponca and the trail up Hemmed-In Hollow to the waterfall. By the time I got there, the camera was drowned, which I did not discover until I had hiked the three quarters mile to the foot of the falls and got not a click out of the soggy shutter of the camera.

I love taking photos as I go, but this hobby of mine was interfering with a new one that was quickly growing on me. I wanted to concentrate on it, on reading the river, keeping the kayak right side up and not falling off, which I almost did when a huge wave knocked me sideways and almost upset me just before the hollow. So after the hike, I put the cameras away. Most of the photos for this trip were taken when I was safely ashore.

Coming out of Hemmed-In Hollow we met Josh and Nate, two guys probably in their 20s, one a medical assistant and the other a manager of a golf course. Both from Fayetteville, AR. They were in a canoe with cooler, plenty of food, beer and a bottle of whiskey that was generously offered. They were in awe that we were going 50 miles downstream.

"How can you do that? I have to work tomorrow," Josh said.

"They're retired," Nate answered for us.

We chatted about the river, women and other unpredictable wonders of the world before they headed up the trail, and Jerry and I headed down the river with their recommendations for good camping spot.

Ready to start with wool shirt and rain pants.

Josh and Nate were in their bathing suits and flip-flops. I was in a wool shirt and rain pants. I began to see that less clothing might be better than clothing that held the water next to your skin. The wool shirt saw action later in the trip, but the rain pants went away except for when it was actually raining. In a sit-on-top kayak in rough water, you are going to spend 99 percent of your time sitting in water. I thought the rain pants would keep the water out. They did not. What they did was hold the water in once it got in and prevent any drying out that light pants or bare legs would allow. Quick-dry pants became the dress of the day from then on.

Jerry at the remains of the cabin.

Jerry and I camped at Seamster Cabin, one of the places recommended. The cabin was a clubhouse built by Bernal Seamster, a Fayetteville lawyer who died in 1961. The "Buffalo River Handbook" by Kenneth L. Smith, says it was off any improved road and one visitor said, "It's almost like you have to swing on a grapevine to get there."

We hiked up to what's left of the cabin and gazed down onto the river, watching turtles float to the surface, their round bodies and splayed legs making tiny black cat footprints going up the river.

A great first day. Used my headlamp to read in the guidebook about what's coming tomorrow, something called "Hell's Half Acre." Should be interesting. (Why does Hell always get only half an acre and not a full one?)

Jerry in camp and cooking dinner.